Milford sound and the Mitre peak

Milford sound and the Mitre peak

country : New Zealand

place : south-west of the southern island

Fill a tumbler full of water from a waterfall cascading from rocks hundreds of metres above your head on a scenic cruise of the Milford Sound and you will know what it really means to be a New Zealander. Taste its pure flavour and you'll know you're in the Milford Sound.

The scale of the landscape in Milford Sound is phenomenal. Large cruise boats look extremely insignificant against the grandeur of Mitre Peak and the walls of this mighty fiord. Its steep rock walls plunge vertically for hundreds of metres both above and below the water line, allowing cruise boats to maneuver beneath the falls.

In 1986, UNESCO bestowed World Heritage status to this region in recognition of its "superlative natural phenomena" and "outstanding examples of the earth's evolutionary history."

This description is not lost on international visitors who flock here from all over the world. Neither is it lost on locals, no matter how often they have visited.

There�s a wide array of cruises on offer in Milford � ranging from scenic cruises and extended daytime cruises with a nature guide, through to overnight excursions with the option of exploring by kayak or tender craft.

However, Milford Sound is not only remarkable above the water, it also has a unique marine environment.

This underwater world is most easily viewed from the Underwater Observatory. It features a spiral staircase that descends for more than seven metres under the water surface to an observation deck.

The deck is fitted with windows to view rare marine life such as Black Coral, which occurs much closer to the surface than deemed normal, thanks to a layer of fresh tannin water which filters light.

For those who wish to get right amongst it, there's also the option to take a guided dive, or explore the grandeur of this magnificent sound by kayak.

The scenic icon of New Zealand is the picture-perfect view of Mitre Peak mirrored in the glassy waters of Milford Sound.

Milford Sound�s majestic grandeur is symbolised by the perfection of this scene of sheer rock walls, 1700 metres high, plummeting into the black depths of the fiord. No wonder author Rudyard Kipling described Milford as the eight wonder of the world, and Arthur Michener thought of it as �the most stirring sight in the Pacific�.

The majestic scenery begins long before you reach Milford, in the Eglinton Valley. Snow-capped mountains loom 1000 metres above the road, streaked with waterfalls, and reflected in mirror lakes. The road climbs steeply into a sub-alpine wonderland at the Homer Tunnel entrance. You emerge from the tunnel to an instantly breathtaking view of the canyon which descends into Milford.

Milford Sound comes a close second to the mountains of Tahiti in recording the highest rainfall in the world. The deluge of 7 metres of rain each year sounds forbidding for a tourist resort, but it actually adds to the drama and mystique of the sound. In torrential rain the sheer mountain walls erupt with a thousand cascades plunging from hanging valleys, wreathed in ethereal mists, and crossed with rainbows.

A boat cruise is the best way to appreciate the grandeur of the sound. Highlights include Bowen Falls, Mitre Peak, Anita Bay, The Elephant and Stirling Falls. In Harrison Cove there is an underwater observatory with views of aquatic life on the reef. Some cruises go out to the entrance of the Sound where dolphins, fur seals and crested penguins may be seen.

Kayaking and diving trips can be arranged and divers have the rare opportunity of seeing black coral at relatively shallow depths. Scenic flights take in the other main sounds down the coast, and the Sutherland Falls, which are New Zealand�s highest.

The 55 km Milford Track, reputed to be �The Finest Walk in the World� operates in the summer months. It takes three days and links Lake Te Anau with Milford Sound.

Milford Sound provides a rare chance to get a close view of nature on a grand scale. It�s the ultimate in scenic splendour in a country that excels in mountain grandeur.

Newzealand, Colonisation

Colonialism
  
FAST FACT:
New Zealand�s first capital was Kororareka (now Russell) in the Bay of Islands, which was briefly the capital in 1840. The capital soon moved south to Auckland, then, in 1865, even further south to its present site of Wellington.  
Though a Dutchman was the first European to sight the country, it was the British who colonised New Zealand. With growing numbers of British migrants, and a dwindling and largely landless Maori population, British culture dominated New Zealand life throughout the 19th and first half of the 20th centuries. However, since World War II, New Zealand has moved towards its own unique national identity and place in the world.

Early Visitor

The first European to sight New Zealand was Dutch explorer Abel Tasman. He was on an expedition to discover a great Southern continent �Great South Land� that was believed to be rich in minerals. In 1642, while searching for this continent, Tasman sighted a �large high-lying land� off the West Coast of the South Island.

First Contact

First to discover New Zealand in 1642, Abel Tasman annexed the country for Holland under the name of �Staten Landt� (later changed to �New Zealand� by Dutch mapmakers). Sailing up the country�s West Coast, Tasman�s first contact with Maori was at the top of the South Island in what is now called Golden Bay. Two waka (canoes) full of Maori men sighted Tasman�s boat. Tasman sent out his men in a small boat, but various misunderstandings saw it rammed by one of the waka. In the resulting skirmish, four of Tasman�s men were killed.

Non-Profit Making Venture

Tasman never set foot on New Zealand, and after sailing up the West Coast, went on to some Pacific Islands, and then back to Batavia (now Jakarta) in the Dutch East Indies (now Indonesia). His mission to New Zealand was considered unsuccessful by his employers, the Dutch East India Company, Tasman having found �no treasures or matters of great profit�.

Venus Envy

Captain James Cook, sent to Tahiti to observe the transit of Venus, was also tasked with the search for the great southern continent thought to exist in the southern seas. Cook�s cabin boy, Young Nick, sighted a piece of land (now called Young Nick�s Head) near Gisborne in 1769.

Fine Specimens

Cook successfully circumnavigated and mapped the country. His botanists and other experts on board his ship, the Endeavour, gained considerable information about the country�s flora and fauna, and the native Maori inhabitants. Cook led two more expeditions to New Zealand, before being killed on a Hawaiian beach in 1779.

Early Settlers

Prior to 1840, it was mainly whalers, sealers, and missionaries who came to New Zealand. These settlers had considerable contact with Maori, especially in coastal areas. Maori and Pakeha (Europeans) traded extensively, and some Europeans lived among Maori.

Arms Trade

Before 1840, there were about 2000 Pakeha (Europeans) in New Zealand, most living in the Bay of Islands. At this time, intertribal Maori warfare was frequent, and the arrival of guns, which Maori traded from Pakeha, made it deadly. This, and the diseases brought by the Pakeha, had a terrible effect on the Maori population, and their numbers started to steeply decline.

Colonial Wave

With the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840, New Zealand became a British colony. This saw a great increase in the number of British migrants coming to New Zealand. Many had their passage paid for by colonial companies. The systematic colonial settlement of New Zealand was largely based on the ideas of Edward Gibbon Wakefield, who believed the colonial settlements should be modelled on the structures of British society. Many New Zealand cities and towns were established and populated in this way. These settlements were intended to be civilised and self-sufficient, with small farmers cultivating their land, and living in peace with the native people.

Disputing Titles

As more migrants arrived and more land was needed for them, land disputes with Maori increased. The ambiguity and lack of adherence to the Treaty of Waitangi saw grievances increase and skirmishes multiply. These turned into full-scale war in Northland during the mid 1840s, and in the rest of the country during the 1860s. British troops helped the New Zealand colonial forces during these conflicts, as did some Maori.

Declining Numbers

During the land wars Maori were victorious on many occasions. Incidents such as the defence of the Ohaewai Pa in Northland showed that Maori military engineering was sophisticated and often superior to Pakeha. However, the force and greater number of the colonial forces eventually saw the New Zealand Wars end in defeat for the Maori tribes. Soon afterwards, the government seized vast tracts of Maori land including prime farmland in Waikato and Taranaki. The major loss of land, combined with continued deaths from disease, saw the Maori population steeply decline, dropping to only about 40,000 by 1900.

Colonial Ties

Throughout the 19^th and much of the 20^th century, the �homeland� of Britain had an enormous influence on New Zealand. Government administration, education, and culture were largely built on British models. New Zealand troops fought, and suffered severe casualties in the Boer War and the two World Wars. As Prime Minister Michael Savage said about England in 1939, �where she goes, we go, where she stands, we stand�.

A New Buddy

After World War II, cultural ties with Great Britain remained strong. However, successive New Zealand governments saw the USA as their major ally and protector. New Zealand signed the joined SEATO (South-East Asia Treaty Organisation) and signed the ANZUS (Australia, New Zealand, and United States) Pact. New Zealand troops also fought with US forces during the Korean and Vietnam wars.

Towards a Republic?

While New Zealand is still heavily influenced by its colonial heritage, the country now has its own strong sense of identity. While still a member of the British Commonwealth, and maintaining close, friendly relations with the USA, New Zealand now has a far more independent trading and foreign policy. Since the mid 1980s, New Zealand has been a nuclear free zone, with its armed forces primarily focused on peacekeeping in the Pacific region. Today, even conservative politicians talk openly about New Zealand eventually becoming a republic � something unheard of until quite recently.

New Zealand, Early Settlement

First Maori were the first inhabitants of Aotearoa/New Zealand (meaning �Land of the Long White Cloud�). After arriving from their ancestral Polynesian homeland of Hawaiki, probably about 1000 years ago, they set up a thriving society based on the iwi (tribe), which flourished for hundreds of years. 

Arriving in Aotearoa

According to Maori, the first explorer to reach New Zealand was Kupe. Using the stars and ocean currents as his navigational guides, he ventured across the Pacific on his waka hourua (voyaging canoe) from his ancestral Polynesian homeland of Hawaiki. It is thought that Kupe made landfall at the Hokianga Harbour in Northland, around 1000 years ago.

Where is Hawaiki?

You will not find Hawaiki on a map, but it is believed Maori came from an island or group of islands in Polynesia in the South Pacific Ocean. It is not known exactly which place, but there are distinct similarities between the Maori language and culture, and others of Polynesia including the Cook Islands, Hawaii, and Tahiti.

Return Journeys

It is now thought that Polynesian migration was planned and deliberate, with many waka hourua making return journeys to Hawaiki. Modern replicas of waka hourua, such as Te Aurere, have successfully journeyed throughout the Pacific, using traditional navigation methods.

  
Tribal Waka

More waka hourua followed Kupe over the next few hundred years, landing at various parts of New Zealand. Today, many iwi (tribes) can trace their entire origins and whakapapa (genealogy) back to certain waka hourua.

Going Fishing

Maori were expert hunters and fishermen. As mostly coastal dwellers, fishing was vitally important to them. It also played a part in their mythology � the god, Maui, was believed to have �fished up� the North Island. Maori wove fishing nets from harakeke (flax), and carved fishhooks from bone and stone. Maori considered whales as kaitiaki (guardians), and used their flesh for food and their hard, strong bones for weapons. A Maori tradition that remains today is to throw back the first fish caught. This is a way of thanking Tangaroa, god of the sea, for his bounty.

Hunters and Collectors

Maori hunted native birds, including moa, the world�s largest bird, with a range of ingenious traps and snares. Many different species of bird, including kereru and tui, were eaten. [ more about Tui] However, the now-extinct huia was considered tapu (sacred) and was never eaten; though its feathers were highly prized, and worn in the heads of rangatira (chiefs). Penguins and seals were hunted and used as food by Maori, especially in the South Island. Muttonbirds were popular in the far south of the country, and are still a prized food today. They were stored in large bags of bull kelp, and could be preserved for many months.       

Grow Your Own

Maori ate native vegetables and also introduced vegetables from Polynesia, including the kumara (sweet potato). Vegetables were planted and harvested with a variety of tools including diggers, spades, and clubs. Maori also ate the roots of ferns, which they pulverised with wooden pounders. Other food included various berries and puha (a spinach-like vegetable). Maori also chewed gum � resin from the giant kauri tree. Weaved flax basket and bags were used to carry food, which was often stored in a pataka � a storehouse raised on stilts.

Scrumptious Earth Oven

Maori had an ingenious way of cooking food that is still popular today, and a must for any visitor to try! The hangi, or umu, is an earth oven built in a large pit. Special stones are placed over a fire of wooden sticks. A layer of green flax is laid above the stones, and then layers of meat and vegetables are placed between more layers of flax. A mat covers the oven. Water is then placed on the hot stones, which steams the food. Slow cooking makes the food extremely tender, while the wood and the flax infuse the food with a beautiful delicate and smoky flavour.

Fighting Fit

In pre-European times, skirmishes between Maori tribes would often occur. To protect themselves from being attacked by other iwi, Maori would construct a pa (fortified village). These pa were often built in strategic locations, such as at the top of hills and on ridges. Most pa were cleverly constructed, with a series of stockades and trenches protecting the inhabitants from intruders. Today, many historic pa sites can be found throughout the country.

Once Were Warriors

Both before and after the arrival of European, Maori have proved to be excellent warriors. Only men fought, and one of the most highly prized weapons was the spear-like taiaha. This weapon, often beautifully carved, is still used in Maori ceremonies today, and its use has become a highly sophisticated art form. Another fearsome weapon was the mere (club), beautifully carved, with some made out of pounamu (greenstone or jade). A warrior with a full moko (tattoo) on his face, brandishing a taiaha or mere, makes a fearsome sight.

Focal Point

The marae (meeting grounds) was a focal point of Maori communities, and still fulfils a crucial role in Maori society today. Wharenui (meeting houses � literally �big house�) were large structures at the centre of the marae. A wharenui resembles a human body in structure. The front part, called the koruru, represents the head. The maihi are large boards that reach from the �head� down to the ground, and represent arms. The amo are short boards at the front of the wharenui representing legs, while the tahuhu, a large beam running down the length of the roof, represents the spine. Many wharenui contain intricate carvings and panels that refer to the whakapapa (genealogy) of the tribe, and to Maori creation stories.

Moriori

While Maori lived throughout the North and South Islands, the Moriori, another Polynesian tribe, lived on the Chatham Islands, nearly 900 kilometres east of Christchurch. Moriori are believed to have migrated to the Chathams from the South Island of New Zealand. In the late 18^th century, there were about 2000 Moriori living on the Chathams. However, disease and attacks from Maori saw the numbers of this peace-loving tribe become severely depleted. The last full-blooded Moriori is believed to have died in 1933.
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New Zealand, The Youngest Country

Legend has it that New Zealand was fished from the sea. Fact has it that New Zealand was the last land mass on earth to be discovered, making New Zealand the youngest country on earth.

Nation of Migrants

The first New Zealanders, the Maori, migrated here from their ancestral Polynesian homeland of Hawaiki. This was followed about 800 years later by extensive European migration. The influence of Pacific Island and Asian immigrants during the 20^th century has helped shape New Zealand into an even more vibrant and diverse multicultural society.

From Hawaiki to Aotearoa

Maori first landed in Aotearoa (New Zealand � literally �Land of the Long White Cloud) on waka hourua (voyaging canoes) from their ancestral homeland of Hawaiki probably over 1,000 years ago. They settled throughout the land, surviving by farming and hunting. By 1800 there were believed to be over 100,000 Maori in New Zealand.

European Migration

Abel Tasman became the first European to sight New Zealand, but it was after Captain James Cook began his circumnavigation of the country in 1769 that European migration began. The first European migrants were whalers and missionaries.

One Nation

In 1839 there were only about 2000 Pakeha ( Europeans) in New Zealand. However the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840, which saw New Zealand become a British colony, had an enormous effect on the New Zealand population. British migrants were offered a paid passage to New Zealand, and 40,000 arrived here between 1840 and 1860. By 1858 the Maori and Pakeha populations were nearly equal. The South Island gold rush of the 1860s saw even more migrants flood in from around the world, including English, Scots, Irish and Chinese. A labour shortage here in the late 19^th century saw even more migrants from the British Isles and Europe come to New Zealand. Most came with assistance from the New Zealand Government. 

Wine and Gum

From the 1890s over 5000 migrants from Dalmatia (now in Croatia) settled in the far north. Most Dalmatians worked in the gumfields, digging for gum from the giant kauri tree. When gumdigging ceased, many Dalmatians become involved with farming, intermarrying with locals and becoming part of the rural community. Dalmatian immigrants also established vineyards in West Auckland in the early 1900s. Today, some of New Zealand�s best-known wines, including Babich and Pleasant Valley, come from vineyards established by Dalmatians in this area.

Kilt Country

During the mid and late 1800s a large number of Scottish migrants settled in New Zealand, especially in the South Island provinces of Otago and Southland. Dunedin (from Dun Edin, the old Celtic name for Edinburgh) is the capital of Otago. It was designed as a city for members of the Free Church of Scotland, which broke away from the Church of Scotland in 1843. The Scottish influence can still be seen throughout the city�s architecture, particularly in the University and Medical School. Pipes bands, Scottish country dancing, and the sport of curling are all pastimes originally brought to New Zealand by Scottish migrants, but now firmly part of the New Zealand way of life.

Golden Migrants

As well as bringing in large numbers of miners from Europe, Australia, and America, the Otago gold rush attracted many male migrants from China. In the country they called �New Gold Hill�, many Chinese migrants suffered hardship, discrimination and loneliness. Many of the descendants of these miners, and subsequent Chinese migrants, became market gardeners. During World War II, Chinese market gardeners heroically contributed to the war effort, producing massive amounts of food for troops.

Dutch Migration

Abel Tasman, who sighted New Zealand in 1642, was the first Dutchman to visit New Zealand. In the 1950s an agreement between the Dutch and New Zealand governments saw a large number of Dutch migrants settle throughout New Zealand. Dutch migrants brought many skills with them, and made a major contribution to the development of the New Zealand restaurant, horticulture (particularly flower growing), building design, and fashion industries. Today, about 100,000 New Zealanders can claim Dutch descent. Thanks to Dutch migrants, New Zealand currently exports tulip bulbs to the Netherlands!

Pacific Friends

During the 1960s and 70s New Zealand faced a severe labour shortage. This led to a large number of migrants from the Pacific Islands arriving in New Zealand, especially in Auckland. Pacific Islanders now make up more than 5 percent of the New Zealand population, and Auckland is now the largest Polynesian city in the world. While Pacific Islanders were originally employed in factories and lesser-skilled jobs, a growing number are now entering the professions, and making a major contribution to professional sport, fashion, popular music, television, and the arts in New Zealand. The influence of Pacific Island food, fashion, and arts can be seen on the streets of most New Zealand cities.

Asian Migration

The last 15 years have seen considerable migration to New Zealand from Asia, including Hong Kong, Taiwan, Singapore, Korea, and Japan. These Asian migrants have greatly contributed to the New Zealand economy, particularly in the areas of business and the professions. Most New Zealand cities now have many Asian restaurants and shops.

New Zealand : Treaty of Waitangi

Signed in 1840, the Treaty of Waitangi is an agreement between the British Crown and Maori. It established British law in New Zealand, while at the same time guaranteeing Maori authority over their land and culture. The Treaty is considered New Zealand�s founding document.

Declaration of Independence

After Captain Cook�s exploration of New Zealand in the late 18^th century, an increasing number of settlers came to New Zealand. By 1839, there were an estimated 2,000 Pakeha (Europeans) living in New Zealand. In 1833, after increasing lawlessness amongst traders and settlers, the British government appointed James Busby as British Resident to protect British trading interests and counter the growing lawlessness.

In 1835, the French were looking to trade and settle in New Zealand and had started to buy land. In response to this, the British Crown signed a Declaration of Independence with 34 northern Maori Chiefs. This declared New Zealand an independent state under British rule. It also stated that �no claim could be made on New Zealand without Maori agreement�.
Despite Busby�s presence, lawlessness, and the number of dubious land sales to Pakeha, increased. The British Government decided there was a need for some effective rule in New Zealand. In 1840, they sent Captain William Hobson there as Lieutenant-Governor. His mission was to acquire the Sovereignty of New Zealand, by way of a treaty with the native Maori Chiefs.

Treaty of Waitangi

A treaty was drawn up and translated. After a day of debate, the Treaty of Waitangi was signed on February 6, 1840, at Waitangi in the Bay of Islands. Forty-three Northland Chiefs signed the treaty on that day. Over 500 Maori Chiefs signed it as it was taken around the country during the next eight months.
The grounds and building where the treaty was signed have been preserved. Today, the Waitangi Historic Reserve is a popular tourist attraction. There is a large Maori meeting house, the colonial mission house, an historic flagstaff, as well as a very long waka taua (Maori war canoe).

Open to Interpretation

While most treaties and contracts signed by Britain and her colonies during these times have been forgotten, the Treaty of Waitangi remains central to New Zealand law and society. It is considered by many to be the country�s founding document. However, ever since its signing, the Treaty of Waitangi has presented many problems of interpretation.
The English and Maori versions of the treaty both contain three articles. However, as the Treaty was written and translated by people with little or no legal experience, the Maori translation differs widely in interpretation from the English version.
The first article covers sovereignty. The English version states that Maori give up their �kawanatanga� (governorship or sovereignty) to the British Crown. However, while the English version describes a complete transference of power to the Crown, the Maori version implies a sharing of power.

The second article concerns �tino rangatiratanga� or chieftainship. The Maori version promises much broader rights for Maori in regard to possession of their existing �taonga� (treasures). The English version gives Maori control over their lands, forests, fisheries, and other properties. But the Maori version, with its use of the word �taonga�, implies possession and protection of things such as language and culture. The third Article promises Maori the rights of all British subjects, while protecting traditional and customary rights.

The Waitangi Tribunal

Although it is referred to as New Zealand�s �founding document�, many of the rights guaranteed to Maori in the document have been ignored. Despite the protection offered in the Treaty of Waitangi, Maori lost considerable amounts of land through the 19^th and 20^th centuries. The manner in which the land was lost was often questionable, and led to considerable protest from Maori.
In 1975, the government established the Waitangi Tribunal. This tribunal was established to honour the treaty as a relevant and living document. Since then, the Waitangi Tribunal has ruled on a number of claims brought by Maori iwi (tribes). In many cases, compensation, often in the form of financial payments and land, has been granted. In the last ten years, some particularly large settlements have been made between the Government and major iwi, including Tainui of the Waikato, and Ngai Tahu of the South Island. Much of the compensation has been invested in order to provide educational and health services for members of the iwi.
Which translation of the Treaty of Waitangi is the right one? Both. Because both versions are signed, the Waitangi Tribunal is instructed to have regard to both texts when making decisions.

Seoraksan National Park (NaeSeorak)

Also referred to as Seolsan and Seolbongsan, the mountain was named Seorak because the snow would not melt for a long time keeping the rocks in a permanent state of white. In November 1965, the Seorak Mountain district was designated as a Natural Monument preservation area. Afterwards in December 1973, it was designated as a park preservation area, and in August 1982, as a Biosphere Preservation District by UNESCO.

The park is spread across 4 cities and counties: Sokcho, Inje, Goseong and Yangyang. The highest peak is Daecheongbong; to the east is OeSeorak and to the west is NaeSeorak, which is divided again into North NaeSeorak and South NaeSeorak. North NaeSeorak is composed of Bukcheon, which flows to Ingyecheon and Baekdamcheon. There are numerous valleys in NaeSeorak. Follow the Baekdamcheon Valley where all the streams meet and you will reach Baekdamsa Temple, which is known for its beautiful scenery. Upstream there is Gayadong Valley and Suryeomdong Valley, and past Yeongsiam and Mangyeongdae there is Madeungryeong Ridge (1,327m) that leads to Seorakdong. Follow Suryeomdong Valley and you will reach Waryong Waterfall and Ssangpok. Further up is Bongjeongam (1,224m sea level). Once you arrive at Daecheong Peak you can view the magnificent mountain range. The sunrise viewed from here is spectacular and should not be missed. South NaeSeorak directs the valley from Oknyeotang area to Hangyeryeong. Daeseung Waterfall north of Jangsudae is the most beautiful site of NaeSeorak, which is 88m high. South of Yongdaeri Valley is the Twelve Fairy Bathing Spring, Oktang Falls, and Yongtang Falls, along with several other traditional relics.

Jeonju: Hanok and Bibimbap Aplenty in Korea's Cultural Heartland

Jeonju may be known around Korea for its excellent food, and specifically its famous mixed rice dish of bibimbap, but the city also has an illustrious past and has played its part in helping to shape the Korea we know today.Once described by a Busan native as �the countryside,� Jeonju is indeed located in a beautiful area of the country, with four national parks a short bus ride away.History abounds here too, and Jeonju�s hanok village is the place to experience the traditions of old Korea,learn about Jeonju�s place in history and sip tea in a traditional teahouse.

Birthplace of the Joseon Dynasty

If not for the defeat of the Hubaekje (�later Baekje�) kingdom in AD 936, uniting the three later kingdoms and unifying Korea under the Goryeo Dynasty, Jeonju might not have had its five minutes of fame.

The former capital of Hubaekje was thrust back into the national spotlight when King Taejo of Jeonju's Yi clan succeeded in overthrowing the Goryeo Dynasty to establish the Joseon Dynasty (1392�1910)�a dynasty that was conceived in Jeonju and would lead Korea for over five hundred years.

Jeonju Hanok Village

 

Jeonju has some beautiful and interesting places to go, and the peaks that surround the city offer great hiking and views, but all tourists, Korean or international, inevitably find their way to the hanok village. Built during the 1930s, it was a reaction to the expanding Japanese influence in the city and was seen as both a source of national pride and a way to counteract the Japanese architecture that was becoming prevalent, examples of which can still be seen in the village. The village is located in the southeast of the city, and its entrance is signaled by the magnificent Jeondong Cathedral. Made of foot stones from nearby Pungnamun, one of the former gates to the city and a prominent cultural asset in itself, the cathedral was established to uphold the spirit of Catholic martyrs, and it is considered one of the most beautiful churches in Korea.

Next to the cathedral is Gyeonggijeon, the complex that houses Gyeonggi Hall, which in turn houses the portrait of King Taejo, founder of the Joseon Dynasty. The rest of the village is filled with all kinds of wonderful hidden treasures that can be found only by exploring the alleyways and courtyards. You may find a small workshop hand-making hanji paper, or perhaps a tiny tea house. There are also plenty of restaurants, as well as calligraphy and wine museums.
The village is deceptively large, running from Jeondong Cathedral in the west to the Imokdae Pavilion in the east. There are craft shops on Taejo-ro, the main street running east to west, where you can participate in workshops for making all kinds of things out of hanji and clay. Off in the recesses of the village are more studios offering wood engraving, natural dyeing, embroidery, weaving, fan making and more.

The Korean Traditional Life Experience Park is a place where people can go to experience a variety of traditional aspects of Korean life, and it also doubles as a hanok hotel. For a more modern sleep, the Jeonju Core Riviera Hotel, on the eastern fringe of the village, offers a fantastic vista of the tiled rooftops of the village. The beautiful buildings and myriad alleyways that provide places to eat, drink and be entertained during the day transform at night to give off an air of authenticity that is hard to see when cars and tourists are filling the narrow roads. A wander around the village at sunrise or sunset, when the residents of the village emerge and most of the tourists have left, is a must.

Land of the Bibimbap

Jeonju is perhaps best known around Korea for its food. The fertile Honam Plain and the clear waters of the region are said to be contributing factors in the city's nationwide food fame. Bibimbap is the city's signature dish, and it can be found everywhere.
There are, however, a few restaurants that have excelled in its production. Gogung, located near the lily-laden Deokjin Park, specializes in both bibimbap and goldongban, the food of the kings of the Joseon period. There is also a bibimbap museum on the second floor, which traces the history and regional varieties of this deceptively simple and delicious dish.

Nearer the hanok village, Gajok Hoegwan is another famous place to eat bibimbap in Jeonju. There are also plenty of traditional teahouses in the city, with most concentrated in or around the hanok village. One of the nicer ones for escaping the busy streets is Punggyeong, a small place located directly opposite the entrance to Gyeonggijeon on the second floor. A window seat offers you the chance to observe the throng of tourists and locals who pass through everyday. The green plum tea here is especially refreshing. If you prefer a glass of wine, then head toward Bom, a converted hanok that sells a selection of drinks and small snacks with an attached gallery that houses small exhibitions.

Getting There
Jeonju is a major transportation hub, so getting there doesn�t present much of a problem. The quickest way is to take the KTX from Seoul�s Yongsan Station to Iksan, and transfer to another train to Jeonju. The trip takes about 2 hours, 30 minutes in total. There are cheaper trains that go directly to Jeonju from Yongsan, but they�re much slower and they tend to fill up on the weekends.